Herbert Zillinger, Wienviertel
Kompromisløs purist. Biodynamiske avantgarde-vine fra Weinviertel.
Herbert Zillinger overtog i 1998 det dengang 7 ha store familievinbrug. I 2005 blev Herberts kone, Carmen Zillinger, en del af firmaet, og fra 2016 har hun arbejdet fuld tid sammen med sin mand. I dag er gården vokset til 15 ha vinmark, der i 2015 blev certificeret økologisk og i 2017 biodynamisk. Der er ikke planer...
Meget moden, intens, sødmefuld, eksotisk frugt under en kalket, mineralsk overflade. Anelser af udslukt lejrbål. Under skruelåg og holder snildt en uge i køleskabet, bliver kun bedre og mere kompleks. Fem store. - Niels Lillelund
From the Ried Vogelsang (limestone-sandstone), the 2019 Grüner Veltliner Kalkvogel is deep, concentrated and chalky on the nose that displays ripe, darker toned yellow fruit aromas intertwined with yeasty notes. Vinified in large oak for more than a year and bottled unfiltered, this is a full-bodied, round and juicy, refined but tensioned Gruener with a stimulatingly salty-piquant and aromatic finish. Very long, dense and complex, this is one of the most exciting Grueners I've had from the Weinviertel. - Stephan Reinhardt
Very pale gold. Intense aroma of smoky yellow plums, an impression of ripeness and freshness at the same time. Remarkable to have such marked minerality at the same time as so much ripe fruit. On the palate, deep, chewy and powerful with a core of freshness to take this way into the distance like an arrow shot. A fabulous wine and VGV. Stony and intensely fruited aftertaste. Great balance and length. - Julia Harding MW
Pure, south-facing limestone in neighbouring Ollersdorf (Herbert and Carmen Z are based in Ebenthal). Bottled after a year on lees, unfiltered. A long-distance wine, I'm assured. Deep gold. Like the Weintal, pretty shy on the nose at this early stage but with much more tension. Very ambitious with lots packed in. Grest density and promise but no puppy fat. Long. - Jancis Robinson MW
The Ollersdorfer 2018 Grüner Veltliner Ried Vogelsang comes from a south-facing vineyard on pure calcareous sandstone, and Herbert Zillinger considers this his most exciting vineyard. Intensely golden in color, with perfectly ripe stone fruit aromas on the nose, this is a full-bodied, rich and elegant, pretty generous and juicy yet tight, if not even demanding Veltliner with fine tannins and a powerful yet fine, fresh and salty-herbal finish with oriental seed spices on the aftertaste. Aged on the full lees for one year and bottled without filtration, this wine is a long-distance runner with grip and tension. Try from a big glass, like Zalto's Burgundy... - Stephan Reinhardt
Mittleres Grüngelb, Silberreflexe. Zarte Kräuterwürze, kandierte Orangenzesten, zart nach Quitten und gelbem Apfel, rauchige Nuancen, facettenreiches Bukett. Straff, engmaschig, weiße Kernobstnuancen, lebendige Struktur, mineralisch, feiner Zitrustouch, ein Hauch von Walnuss im Abgang, gute Länge, ein facettenreicher, salziger Speisenbegleiter mit Potenzial.
From 15– and 25–year–old vines on limestone-sandstone soils and vinified in large oak until August this year, the 2017 Grüner Veltliner Vogelsang Ried Ollersdorfer is intensely fruity and well concentrated on the aromatic and spicy/herbal nose. Very deep and intense but fine and complex. Full-bodied and complex on the nose, this is a silky-textured, fresh and salty wine with enormous length and mineral tension. Tight and chalky, this is an impressive wine with floral and herbal notes on the nose and a well-balanced richness and generosity. Still young but so beautifully salty, fresh and grippy, full of vitality and aging potential. Probably one of the finest Grüners from the Weinviertel and one of the best Veltliners of the vintage in all of Austria. - Stephan Reinhardt