Jean Thévenet et fils, Viré-clessé
Thevenet høster meget sent og anvender lidt botrytiserede druer. Det giver fyldige, fede og komplekse hvidvine. Flotte anmeldelser i den danske og internationale vinpresse. Fælles for Domænerne Bongran, Emilian Gillet og Roally er, at de dyrkes økologisk uden dog at være certificerede. Jean Thevenet ønsker at sælge sine vine på kvaliteten og ikke på, om det er økologisk. Han var venner med J...
Offering up aromas of citrus zest, white flowers, orange blossom and honeysuckle, the 2020 Viré-Clessé Quintaine is medium-bodied, satiny and vibrant, with racy acids and chalky structure, standing out as an especially charming, fine-boned rendition of this routinely excellent bottling. - William Kelley
The 2019 Viré-Clessé Quintaine, which comes from active limestone soils, had been bottled just three weeks prior to my visit and will be commercialised next year. It offers enticing elderflower and white peachy scents on the well-defined nose. It is gentle at first but gains intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, slightly honeyed in texture with dried apricot, peach and a touch of ginger. The 2019 has fine length and tension on the finish. Excellent. - Neal Martin
Bright, full yellow. Yellow fruits and menthol on the nose; a bit less exotic than the 2016 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé that preceded it in my tasting with Gautier Thévenet. Conveys a considerably stronger impression of acidity and saline minerality than the Domaine de Roally; if this wine is more youthfully strict, it also boasts greater finesse. Conveys a strong impression of active calcaire, finishing tight but harmonious, with noteworthy density and saline persistence. These vines are at slightly higher altitude than those of Domaine de Roally, and the wine can show a bit of marne bitterness early on, according to Thévenet. - Stephen Tanzer
The 2014 Vire-Clesse Quintaine, which has seven to eight grams per liter residual sugar, has a pure and generous bouquet of acacia honey, hints of almond and peach, more accurately overripe peaches that are well defined. The palate is very well balanced, that acidity counterbalancing the richness in situ. It has a lovely, slightly viscous texture and a complex second half of white peach, apricot and a pinch of spice. It just seems to flow across the mouth. Personally, I would be inclined to serve this as a slightly chilled desert wine. This is outstanding. - Neal Martin
Pale yellow with a gold tinge. Pure, subdued aromas of peach and minerals, with a hint of iodine. Lush, rich and saline in the mouth, conveying a strong terroir-typical note of crustaceans. This suave wine's strong acidity still needs another year or two to harmonize with the stone fruit flavors. - Stephen Tanzer
