Chardonnay Dulcinea, Clos des Fous

The 2017 Dulcinea was produced with Chardonnay from a 2.6-hectare vineyard planted in 2010 in Traiguén in Malleco, in the south of Chile, that is dry-farmed and worked biodynamically. The soils are volcanic, and the zone has plenty of rain—900 to 1,200 liters depending on the vintage. It fermented and matured for two winters in French oak barrels, one-third of them new. 2017 was a riper year that gave them better yields (it's a new vineyard, planted in 2012) and resulted in a very good balance. The wine is spicy and smoky, very Burgundian, with a leesy character (it was kept with the lees without racking until bottling) and an austere, defined palate with a dry finish. Not quite at the level of the superb 2016, but very close. 2,900 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2019.

The 2016 Dulcinea was produced from a dry-farmed vineyard planted in 2010 in Traiguén in the south of Chile. It's a fresh vintage with good weight, combining elegance and ripeness, always super tasty, elegant and long on the palate, in a subtle way. There is less oak than previous vintages, because in the beginning they had to use new barrels. It opens up in the glass, showing some reductive minerality not unlike some of my favorite whites from Burgundy. They have increased volumes here to 1,500 bottles. It should develop nicely in bottle. It was bottled in January 2018.

This is incredible with such complexity of dried apple, honey, straw and chalk. Full body, bright acidity and incredible length. Stone and intensity. Goes on for minutes. I am amazed. 2.5 hectares biodynamically grown and only 1,000 bottles made

The soil of the 2013 Dulcinea, a new top Chardonnay from Clos des Fous from the southern Malleco Valley, is volcanic tuff, and the wine is barrel-fermented with full malolactic. The nose transported me to Burgundy, more Corton than Puligny, with aromas and flavors of nuts and a salty, mineral finish; the wine is round rather than sharp and long. It's still a little oaky, and it should be better integrated in one more year. There is a smoky, nutty character here. - Luis Gutierrez