Savigny-les-Beaune 1. cru Vergelleses, Simon Bize

As usual, Bize’s 2008 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Vergelesses displays the deepest, most marrow-rich sense of meatiness as well as some of the most prominent mineral character – here by way of chalk and stone – in its collection. Pronounced fruit pit piquancy and a forest-floor and damp bark earthiness are allied to strong but fine-grained tannins and bright, tart, red berry juiciness that holds its own with the carnal and mineral elements in a long finish. The family-resemblance to next-door Talmettes is obvious, and here, too, I anticipate at least a 15 or more year run, with the likelihood that both a more generous and yet more complex performance will be forthcoming. Bize included around half of the stems in the fermentor for this Vergelesses. Patrick Bize’s 2008s did not finish their malos until they were one year old, a statistic only slightly less startling given the vintage than it would otherwise be. (By contrast – and again, not all that exceptionally for their vintage – the 2009s had, despite Bize’s notoriously cold cellars, already done malo by February … the February after harvest, that is!) This domaine has long and with good reason counted as one of its village’s top performers – if not number one – and while its collections in 2008 and 2007 do not approach the superb quality achieved here in 2005, young Bize wines – like the man himself – are lean, sinewy, frequently understated yet incisive, and have a habit of making fools of their critics. They often “come from behind” in ostensibly “lesser” vintages, and not only the 2008s here but also the surprisingly energetic, focused 2007s should prove fascinating and rewarding to follow over the coming decade. - David Schildknecht