Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal
Kamptal er efter Wachau Østrigs bedste vinregion med en århundredelang tradition for vindyrkning. Hovedsorterne er Grüner Veltliner og Riesling, men der dyrkes også en lang række andre sorter - bl.a. de røde Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir og Merlot.
Kvaliteten er tårnhøj i regionen og øges yderligere gennem det arbejde, der laves i ÖTW - en søsterorganisation til det...
Gobelsburg's 2017 Grüner Veltliner Tradition is clear, ripe and intense on the slightly oaky but deep and complex nose. Ripe, lush, elegant and intense on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich and powerful yet spicy-mineral Veltliner with a firm tannin structure and remarkable aging potential. It's a typical Veltliner and needs five or more years to integrate its phenols and reduce its baby fat. Again, this is entirely based on the Renner fruit. - Stephan Reinhardt
Leuchtendes, mittleres Gelbgrün. Mit etwas Blütenhonig unterlegte Mango, ein Hauch von Marille und Ananas, zart nach Wiesenkräutern. Saftig, gute Komplexität, leichtfüßig und elegant, mineralisch im Abgang, Pfirsich im Nachhall, lange anhaltend, guter Speisenbegleiter.
Entirely from the Gaisberg cru, the 2017 Riesling Tradition displays a clear and flinty, intense, fresh and complex bouquet of ripe and concentrated stone fruits intertwined with notes of crushed stones and herbal tea. On the palate, this is a rich and concentrated, lush and fruity Riesling with a sustainable, salty-piquant and well-structured, highly stimulating finish. This is a great wine made to age for a decade and more. - Stephan Reinhardt
The 2016 Riesling Tradition is ripe and concentrated on the nose, with intense peach aromas intermixed with flinty notes. Lush and juicy, this is a fruity, very piquant and slightly sweet but elegant wine. This is a firmly structured, powerful and persistent Riesling that will benefit from further bottle aging. - Stephan Reinhardt
The 2015 Riesling Tradition has a super clear, fresh, precise and mineral-scented bouquet of white stone fruits and even pineapples and mango. But all is discreet and interwoven with the overall aromatic complexity. On the palate, this is a firmly structured, pure and mineral dry Gaisberg with ripe peach aromas, racy but integrated acidity and fine tannins carrying this Riesling to a long, aromatic, dry and stimulatingly salty finish. This wine is very attractive today but will gain complexity over the years. It is still fruitier compared to the 2014 and thus more difficult to score regarding its true nature. It is a great dry, pure and crystalline Riesling in any case. Tasted in July 2917 at the domaine.
Mittleres Grüngelb. Zarter Blütenhonig, ein Hauch von Mandarinen, Maracujatouch, ein Hauch von Wiesenkräutern, feine Mineralität. Elegant am Gaumen, saftige gelbe Frucht, frisch strukturiert, bleibt sehr gut haften, zeigt Länge und Balance, ein finessenreicher Speisenbegleiter mit klarem Jahrgangscharakter und weiterem Reifepotenzial.
White peach, kiwi, iris, honeysuckle, almond, hazelnut, moss and wet stone combine for an utterly engaging aromatic and palate performance. Piquancy of peach kernel and pink grapefruit peel cuts into the midpalate amplitude and fruitiness for an impression unexpected in a Gobelsburg Tradition bottling and indicative of this site’s 2014 brush with botrytis. The finish here is thus all the more remarkable for its combination of mouth-shaking vibrancy, bright retention of primary juiciness, and transparency to alkaline and crystalline stony notes. (I last tasted this shortly ahead of its midsummer bottling.) - David Schildknecht
The 2014 Riesling Tradition opens with a clear, highly elegant and delicate bouquet with crystalline flavors and a beautifully matured Riesling and concentrated white peach aroma. Sourced in the Gaisberg, this is a fresh, piquant and salty dry Riesling with good intensity, concentration and herbal (marjoram) flavors in the pure, salty, piquant, vitalizing and impressively persistent finish. There is no gram of flesh or sweetness on the bones of this greatly mineral wine that can compete with the finest dry Rieslings on planet wine. The finish is well structured and grippy, stimulatingly fresh and piquant. Is there a Riesling I would compare it to? Hard to say, but again and again the Alsace Grand Cru Kastelberg from Kreydenweiss comes to my mind. - Stephan Reinhardt
Helles Gelbgrün. Zart nach kandierten Orangenzesten, ein Hauch von Ananas und Erdbeeren, florale Nuancen, mineralische Aspekte, noch zurückhaltend. Saftig, elegant, dezente Fruchtsüße, gut integrierter Säurebogen, im Moment nur mittlere Länge, dezente Süße im Rückgeschmack.
A haunting nose combines bittersweet perfumed iris, saffron and faint hints of smoky Latakia tobacco with intimations of grapefruit and apple that go on to supply satisfying primary juiciness of a satin-textured, strikingly buoyant palate. A mouthwatering upwelling suggestive of salted veal stock complements the inner-mouth perfume of a soothingly lingering tobacco- and pepper-tinged finish. - David Schildknecht
Believe me or not, but the 2012 Riesling Tradition, which keeps its true origin as a useless secret (Niederösterreich), is the finest and most subtle Austrian Riesling I have tasted this summer. The nose is very Burgundian in its purity, elegance and subtle expression of fruit and mineral-rich terroir. It shows the purity, multi-facetedness, noblesse and serenity of a great wine which does not care about primary fruit aromas, but reveals enormously subtle flavors of flowers, herbs, crystalline stones and fruits like honeydew, nuts and turkish honey. The palate is highly elegant and perfectly balanced, the taste noble, complex and long without exposing anything else but finesse, elegance and harmony. Going back to younger, more fruit-driven wines from here would be a banal exercise. The old monks knew quite well what they did and they obviously knew what tastes good. - Stephan Reinhardt