Brunello di Montalcino, Potazzine

Lys transparent rubin. Nellike og viol på toppen af tørret tranebær, tranebærvin og en løftet svævende blomstret friskhed på toppen af katolsk lugtunivers, kirkelig, klosteragtig. Holder kun 14 % og toner rent flag med det samme. Tungen rammes af burgundisk elegance, syrefrisk tranebærjuice, tanninen er hemmelig i starten og vokser langsomt frem, især bagerst i munden. Fornemmelsen af løft, svævning og pælefundament er skøn. Mælkesyre senere. Jeg har svært ved at spytte den ud! Og bare rolig; der ER solid tannin, der lover langvarighed.

Le Potazzine er et relativt ungt hus i Montalcino grundlagt for godt 30 år siden af Giuseppe Gorelli og Gigliola Giannetti, som i dag har markebesiddelser placeret i den syd-sydvestlige del af Montalcino. Sammenlignet med eksempelvis Conti Costanti fra samme importør, der holder til på østsiden af det lille bjerg, er der tale om vin med et ganske andet væsen. Elegancen har de to til fælles, men Le Potazzines brunello har en langt mere ekstrovert, charmant og generøs signatur, som er svær at stå for, og selvom vi er i den varme ende af zonen, drager Gorelli-familien stor fordel af sine højt placerede, ventilerede marker, der i varme årgange som 2019 er med til at sikre friskhed og en sitrende spænding i vinen, som er en ubetinget nødvendighed for stor sangiovese. 2019’eren er således et brag af en brunello, helt utrolig raffineret, imødekommende og indsmigrende. Nærmest saftspændt, med en besnærende klarhed og tæskelækker rød frugt. Vældig nuanceret, vældig forfinet, indtrykkene skifter hele tiden i glasset med en skøn muldet parfume som gennemgående træk. Læg dertil lyse kirsebær, cedertræflis, lakrids, knuste kalksten, kopattesalve og mandarinskal. Balancen og den ubesværede lethed er slående. Vidunderligt bid fra syren, tanninerne er søde og finkornede. Sublim sangiovese, og den bedste version, jeg endnu har smagt fra huset. - Morten Bundgaard

Proprietor Gigliola Giannetti confirms that 2019 is one of those rare vintages that the estate produced a Riserva as well - but we will have to wait a couple more years for its release. Harvested between 27 September and 5 October, Le Potazzine’s Brunello 2019 exhibits all the vintage’s signature fragrance. Heady cherry blossom, freesia and violet entice immediately while promising more to come. Pure and delineated, the palate offers almost a plushness of strawberry and red cherry, then long, suede-like tannins arrive in waves, never drowning out the fruit. Dense yet spacious with a sophisticated texture, this needs more time - Michaela Morris

Le Potazzine farms some of the highest vineyards in the appellation at 420 to 507 meters above sea level. As we know, high elevations are essential today for maintaining acidity and aromatic freshness, especially in the face of climate change. That has never been a problem for this estate, and the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino delivers all the goods. The bouquet opens to dried cranberry, redcurrant, rosemary flower and light spice. The palate is streamlined and elegant, concluding with powdery tannins. - Monica Larner

Stunning from the first tilt of the glass, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is impossible to ignore. This blends an array of dried flowers with autumnal spices, cedar-tinged cherries and clove hints in a way that I find wildly appealing. It sweeps across the palate with textures of pure silk guided by bright acidity as depths of wild berry fruits and mineral tones saturate toward the close. The 2019 lingers impossibly long, leaving a staining of primary concentration to mingle with grippy tannins and licorice nuances, yet an airy freshness remains through it all. The combination of house style and vintage character here is otherworldly. It will take much willpower to keep our hands off of the 2019 long enough to watch it properly mature. Spellbinding. - Eric Guido

Frisk og fyrig, mere stram end 2017eren, men også mere friskhed. Tranebær og kirsebær, tamarindpasta, lokale bitre digestives, opret og slank, men også mere cool og drikkevenlig end 17eren og jeg har svært ved at afgøre vinderen. Det behøver jeg jo heller ikke – jeg kan drikke begge to og få to forskellige oplevelser med samme varighed og dybde.

Vandmelon og grenadine, negroni og blodappelsin, læder og figen, men frisk figen. Fuld af liv og livslyst og sveder slet ikke i varmen, men løber adræt afsted. Frescezza, succesfuld for årgangen, smukt grønkrydret med mint og mentol. Eftersmagen slutter på skønhed, udtoning, dvælende, det måtte gerne blive ved. Fantastisk brunello for årgangen og i det hele taget en sublim vin.

More than a shade deeper compared with 2018. Concentrated cherry that is still youthful and with a hint of black pepper and black tea leaves. Lush but not heavy and with juicy acidity. You wouldn’t think it comes from a torrid year (but that is all relative now since the even hotter 2022 vintage). Succulent red fruit with elevated acidity but properly tied into the fruit and with a layer of sandy tannins supporting the whole. - Walter Speller

Aromas of crushed mint, pressed rose and perfumed berry mingle with warm spice in this dazzling red. Thanks to some of the highest vineyard altitudes in the denomination, it boasts vibrancy and finesse in its flavors of ripe black cherry, juicy blood orange, licorice and crushed mint. Taut, elegant tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced and focused. - Kerin O'Keefe

The ladies of Le Potazzine make a terrific bottle of Brunello, and their high-elevation vineyards are especially important in maintaining freshness in a scorching-hot vintage such as this. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pretty succession of wild berry, cherry and plum aromas, along with light spice, crushed flowers and perfumed potting soil. This wine is also distinguished by a touch of bay leaf and maybe a warmer note of cured tobacco as well. This is an impressive effort - Monica Larner

An exotic mix of sweet smoke and cloves gives way to dusty black cherries and a twang of sour citrus as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino unfolds in the glass. Further time reveals hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. This enters the palate with pure elegance, delicate and silky in feel, yet also delivering a core of salty minerals that adds unexpected depths to the vivid display of tart wild berries and inner spice. The 2017 finishes with incredible persistence but also poise, structured yet primary, exactly as it should be at this young stage. Keep your hands off for at least a few years, because the best is yet to come. The higher elevations and no-nonsense winemaking at Le Potazzine really aided in creating one of the most balanced and, frankly, interesting wines of the vintage. - Eric Guido

Intens, men kompakt, forknyt nærmest, men fokuseret og strålende af kernekraft. RØD, tranebær og amaro, altså den italienske bitter. Moden og umiddelbart langt fremme i smagen, men optræder harmonisk, nærmest i perfekt balance med utrolig friskhed, urtekrydret eftersmag og løft af medicinske urter og friske syrerige bær som ribs og tyttebær.

Le Potazzine always delivers a smooth and silky style with extreme elegance and the lifted cool-climate fruit that you get from this high-altitude growing site. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is taut and firm with cherry fruit, dried raspberry, tilled earth, spice and blue flower. The wine sees an extended fermentation of 40 days and ages in botte grande for 42 months. This is a well-balanced wine that is slightly thinner, with one notch lower intensity in this vintage compared to past editions. You get a light, sharp and streamlined style. - Monica Larner

Earthy aromas of blue flower, rose, underbrush and leather mingle together on this gorgeous, fragrant red. All about finesse and flavor, the medium-bodied palate is absolutely delicious, featuring juicy morello cherry, crushed raspberry, baking spice, star anise and the barest hint of game. It's radiant and beautifully balanced thanks to taut, polished tannins and bright acidity. It's already showing incredibly well but hold for even more complexity. - Kerin O'Keefe

Fantastisk helstøbt, grotesk velduftende vin med alle de klassiske dyder intakt. Frugten har både friskhed fra højderne og sydens varme, muldede autenticitet og storladne struktur. Mageløs harmoni, eminent balance. Le Potazzine er et relativt nyt hus i Montalcino grundlagt i 1993 af Giuseppe Gorelli og Gigliola Giannetti, men det må efterhånden regnes for fuldtonet medlem af Montalcinos topproducenter. Formidabel brunello fra øverste hylde. 97 point.

Fragrant and elegantly structured, this opens with aromas of woodland berry, iris, new leather and wild aromatic herb. The taut, linear palate delivers juicy Morello cherry, ripe pomegranate, crushed mint and star anise framed in firm, polished tannins. Boasting some of the highest vineyards in the denomination, it retains great freshness and balance. - Kerin O'Keefe

Så kom den! 2015 Brunello di Montalcino fra Le Potazzine og jeg har ventet, ventet... og ventet og den lever mere end op til mine forventninger. I forvejen en af DOCGens mest urtede og friske brunelloer og det er som om kombien af højt liggende marker (+500 m og ca. 420 m) og den varme årgang og måske en beslutning fra Gorelli'erne om bedre bladhangsstyring har givet en af årgangens mest medicinske vine! En sublim brunello med urtetoner, te, hyben, ribs, tranebær og tekstur som at blive aet med satin. Og trodsigt er der så bid, modstand, bitterhed og inerti - brysk syre og uendelig eftersmag med humle og ædle træsorter. Lad mig sige det ligeud: det her er kun for tilhængere af den "røde" sangiovesestil, den slanke sangiovesestil... den med mest på hjerte og den, der nok holder i længden. Den lægger sig i toppen af min 2015-runde, som du kan læse om her; https://renelangdahl.com/…/brunello-di-montalcino-2015-de-h… stilen er beslægtet med Le Ragnaie - de er heller ikke så langt fra hinanden geografisk.

Last year, I had the good fortune to taste through a comprehensive retrospective of old vintages of Le Potazzine. One important lesson I learned from that experience is that this estate makes some of its best wines in the hot vintages. The vineyards are located in one of the coolest points of the appellation with south-facing rows planted 570 meters above sea level (which is much higher than its peers). However, the 2014 Brunello di Montalcino holds its own despite its cool vintage DNA. This edition is visibly thinner in appearance with bright ruby hues followed by crimson highlights. The results are extremely streamlined and tight. This wine plays its cards very close to the chest. With a little extra time in the glass, it opens slowly to reveal wild berry, blueberry, bitter almond, licorice and dried rose petal. There are mild highlights of smoke or ash. Fermented with indigenous yeast, the wine ages in large oak casks for three years. Some 10,000 bottles were made. This will will appeal to those who appreciate the fine and graceful side of Sangiovese, however this expression is also reasonably friendly and accessible for medium-term drinking.

Le Potazzine 's 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is fabulous. The bouquet is showing an earthy display, with smoky minerals and dark soil tones up front, evolving with time in the glass, as crushed black cherry mixes with wild, savory herbs and dried dusty florals. On the palate, gorgeously ripe red fruits are balanced by a mix of saline-minerals, savory spice and zesty acidity, as fine tannin slowly mounts beneath its pretty inner floral tones. The finish is long with a salty-savory twang of minerals and spice, as hints of hard red candies and a bit of citrus lingers over a core of tannic heft. There is so much to like about the 2015, from its classic and earthy bouquet to its fleshy yet balanced palate and totally classic finish. Simply stunning and so pleasurable. - Eric Guido

Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Leafy cherry fruit that is still compact and a little closed. Generous sour-cherry fruit and the tannins are persistent but never dominate the fruit. Muscular structure reveals itself even more on the finish, but the whole strikes a near-perfect balance. - Walter Speller

The Le Potazzine 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is immediately bright and energized. The wine is sprightly and lively. This is an elegantly medium-weight wine, but everything is in exactly the right place. Fresh acidity and snappy fruit flavors are followed by lighter touches of rose petal, cardamon, camphor ash and powdered licorice. These aromas are stacked tall and proud. Of special interest is that point of zesty medicinal herb that reminds you of the relatively cool climate and high-altitude positioning of Le Potazzine's vineyards. These special conditions are exactly why this wine performs so nicely in a warm vintage like 2015. The coolness of the growing site offsets the temperatures of the growing season. - Monica Larner

hvor er det godt … næsen er moden, afrundet og alligevel syrlig frugt med piemontisk elegance, moden og syrlig som konen og har derudover blomster, parfume, tobak, skovbund, violer, læder, babybræk, hindbær, lyse kirsebær og brune efterårsblade fra træerne. Smagen er stringent og imponerende med et stenet udtryk … mineraler, kirsebærsten, våde flintesten, kalk, let lakrids, hvilket sammen med de lyse, modne bær går op i en højere enhed. De er Brunello, når det er bedst. Flot vin.

Besnærende Brunello med en raffineret friskhed og velafstemt balsamisk elegance. Her er alt i lod og vage; smuk aromatisk kompleksitet og saftig, fadkrydret lakridset rød frugt; herbes de Provence, ymer og pibetobak samt læder og en skøn muldet duft. Syren napper, snapper og bider i en flot og let salt finale. - Morten Bundgaard

Besnærende Brunello med en raffineret friskhed og velafstemt balsamisk elegance. Her er alt i lod og vage; smuk aromatisk kompleksitet og saftig, fadkrydret lakridset rød frugt; herbes de Provence, ymer og pibetobak samt læder og en skøn muldet duft. Syren napper, snapper og bider i en flot og let salt finale. - Morten Bundgaard

Bright red. Sweet, spicy red cherry, blueberry compote and powdered rocks on the nose are complicated by herbs and ink. Rich, dense and multilayered, but with delightful vibrancy that gives this concentrated beauty’s liqueur-like richness of red and blue fruit flavors a graceful quality. Outstanding sugar-acid-tannin balance contributes to this wine’s many charms on the exhilaratingly long, lively finish. One of the best Brunellos of the 2013 vintage. - Ian D'Agata

Bright red. Sweet, spicy red cherry, blueberry compote and powdered rocks on the nose are complicated by herbs and ink. Rich, dense and multilayered, but with delightful vibrancy that gives this concentrated beauty’s liqueur-like richness of red and blue fruit flavors a graceful quality. Outstanding sugar-acid-tannin balance contributes to this wine’s many charms on the exhilaratingly long, lively finish. One of the best Brunellos of the 2013 vintage. - Ian D'Agata

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino walks a very fine line between elegance and finesse. Those may seem like two analogous terms, but this wine teaches you that they are not. The bouquet offers tonic and buoyant tones of wild berry, blueberry, dried herb and licorice. Each is elegant in its own right, but together they form a nuanced and finessed whole. Le Potazzine does very nicely in the hot vintages, but it delivers unexpected surprises (like this wine) in the cooler ones. - Monica Larner

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino walks a very fine line between elegance and finesse. Those may seem like two analogous terms, but this wine teaches you that they are not. The bouquet offers tonic and buoyant tones of wild berry, blueberry, dried herb and licorice. Each is elegant in its own right, but together they form a nuanced and finessed whole. Le Potazzine does very nicely in the hot vintages, but it delivers unexpected surprises (like this wine) in the cooler ones. - Monica Larner

Dark red with a pale rim. Balsamic nuances complement slightly austere aromas and flavors of red cherry, camphor and spicy licorice. The finish is long and juicy, leaving behind echoes of minerals and flowers. This calls for seven to eight years of patience but it’s a very promising, refined 2012 Brunello. - Ian D'Agata

Tasted blind. Mid ruby with orange tinges. A little lift on the nose, but not showing much more. Ripe, succulent strawberry and cherry fruit with lots of bite and crunch on the finish. Super-animating and elegant. - Walter Speller

Fresh and full of finesse, this radiant red offers rose, forest floor, woodland berry, new leather and pipe tobacco scents. The palate delivers juicy red cherry, crushed raspberry, wild herb and white pepper notes, finishing on star anise. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity give it intensity, lift and balance. Give it time to develop to its full potential. - Kerin O'Keefe

Le Potazzine Gorelli makes very distinctive expressions of Brunello that reflect a sort of secret truth about the Sangiovese grape. The effect is not completely polished, nor is it boring or predictable. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino reaches for a degree of extreme authenticity and originality that is not commonly found in the appellation. This is low-profile wine with a big personality that proves to be very generous to those who make the time to know it. The bouquet reveals will berry, red rose, spice, earth and wild mushrooms. There is a touch of rusticity as well. In the mouth, this Brunello shows mild tannins and smooth integration. Like a friend you can count on, this is a best-buddy Brunello. - Monica Larner