Silvaner GG Escherndorf am Lumpen 1655, Rainer Sauer

Sourced in the Eulengrube and aged in stück and halbstück (1,200 and 600 liter oak vats from Hoesch) until late July, the 2020 Escherndorf Am Lumpen 1655 VDP.Grosse Lage Silvaner opens with a clear, very intense and concentrated yet fine and slightly flinty as well as yeasty bouquet with aromas of gray bread and concentrated fruit. This GG is even more deep and concentrated as well as complex as the Silvaner L from the neighboring plot inside the Eulengrube, thanks to a lower yield (48 instead of 60 hectoliters per hectare). Full-bodied, intense and fine on the palate, this is a dense, rich and finely tannic Lump Sylvaner with mineral drive and tension on the finish. The GG needs some years in the bottle to gain even more finesse. - Stefan Reinhardt

Escherndorf og Volkachs store stolthed hedder Lump, igen kalkstenspræget og keupermergel-styret. Filetstykket kalder de dygtigste producenter og VdP nu Am Lumpen 1655 og har været nødt til at trademarke det, sandsynligvis grundet brok fra Lumps andre ejere. Knap 29 ha i en sydvendt parabol omkring Escherndorf. Rainer Sauer laver fyldig silvaner her, lettere tilbageholdt aromatisk, under skruelåg, som mange af tyske topsilvanere er. Ikke det mindste alderspræget. Frisk papaja, diskret diesel, vandpyt i kridtgraven, bitterstof fra blid skindkontakt og helt sikkert lang bærmekontakt. Jeg gentager mig selv: stor silvaner er genial madvin, fordi den ikke har vilde styrende aromaer, men spiller på den rustik-ædle mundfornemmelse. - René Langdahl

Sten, flintegnister, grusgrav, geologisk museum i København og kridtgravene i Himmerland… først… og så… umoden papaja, cantaloup melon, saltet citron, valle, filippa-æbler, gigantisk smag, struthamrende frisk med syreløft, men den breder sig over tungen som en stor chablis grand cru, bare med riesling-agtig skarphed, i alle andre sammenhænge ville det her være objektiv storhed, men silvaner kan jo ikke få maksimalkarakter fordi det ikke er chardonnay… vel?

This extraordinary dry silvaner smells like a waterfall surrounded by rocks that are festooned with ferns and moss. Then, with a little aeration, Amalfi-lemon and lemon-blossom notes emerge. In spite of the stunning concentration, this remains so cool and precise. I love the long, sensual and fine-grained finish.

On the nose the Am Lumpen 1655 impresses with a truly fresh fragrance of wet pebbles, flint, green apple and more than a hint of elderflower. Despite its very viscous texture and mouthfeel, there is no danger of blandness, as the taste of stone fruit, apple kernel and an almost gravelly minerality provide plenty of substance and grip. Fumy and earthy nuances add sensory value to the finish. - Michael Schmidt

Blüten in der komplexen Nase, Nektarine, Apfelschale, dunkelwürzig, Mokka, heißer Stein, Rosmarinöl. Schafft den Spagat am Gaumen zwischen Charme, Tiefgründigkeit, Stoffigkeit und Druck, phenolisch, fest verwoben, famoser Silvaner mit viel Potenzial.

On the nose Rainer Sauer’s Silvaner Grosses Gewächs from the Am Lumpen 1655 site appears still a little unsettled, but the generosity of the 2018 vintage has left its mark with a seductive, if slightly untypical fragrance of ripe pear and vanilla. A full body and rich mouthfeel also reflect the character of the vintage, but from there on it’s a mineral journey with quinine, salty and earthy accents, expertly supported by fine nuances of dried herbs and some ripe citrus and stone fruit.

Nicht ganz einfaches Bouquet, das zunächst etwas laktisch wirkt, fängt sich erst mit Luft. Dann kommen die Sieger der vergangenen Jahres feine Kernobstaromen mit kräutriger und erdiger Würze. Im Mund ganz anders: präzise gewebene Frucht, steinig-mineralisch unterlegt, geradlinig, pikant und fest gewoben. Grossartige Länge mit feinwürziger Pikanz. Knüpft an die grandiose Vorjahresleistung an

Sehr verschlossen, eine Spur Kalk. Dezent mit Holz gefasste Fülle am Gaumen, die Wärme der Lage ist in Mineralität übersetzt, und in ein seidiges Oszillieren. Nahtlos integrierte Säure, viel Saftigkeit im Hintergrund, große Zukunft.

Like that of his namesake Horst Sauer, Rainer’s Lumpen is also going for the full-bodied, generous type of Silvaner with rich texture and low-key acidity. Fleshy apricot brings an almost sweet element to the palate, although the finish returns to the herbal roots of the variety. - Michael Schmidt

The Rainer Sauer winery in Escherndorf itself is 70 per cent Silvaner, while the ‘Am Lumpen 1655’ designation covers the subsection of the Lump which the VDP regional association considers qualifies as Grosses Gewächs (Grand Cru). This fine white is showing little signs of age yet, with silver-green colours and sappy scents of springtime woodland, with perhaps a little cobnut richness and quiet pear fruit. The palate is vivid, stately, mouthfilling, gracious — and not un-perfumed either, though finding words to pin to the haunting scents is difficult; the finish is succulent and faintly saline.

Fantastisk fortolkning af et af Frankens bedste terroirs. Super cremet, kompleks kalket næse med gule frugter, asparges og en snert af solbær. Røget, urtekrydret, saftig. Enorm harmonisk og stor mineralsk gennemslagskraft og bitterhed i enden.

Fokussiert in der Nase, nimmt Anlauf für eine lange Duftfolge ohne plakative Primärfrucht. Gewinnt Sympathien durch geradlinige Substanz. Den mineralischen Grundton der Nase wahrt er am Gaumen, selbstbewusst mit frischem Spiel aus Säure und Herbe.