Martin Müllen, Mosel
Weingut Martin Müllen kan ikke prale af en århundredelang historie som mange andre topproducenter i Mosel, men til gengæld er der få, der arbejder så ultratraditionelt som man gør hos Martin Müllen.
Martin Müllen har arbejdet for forskellige andre vinproducenter. Han syntes dog der blev større og større afstand mellem, hvordan han gerne ville lave vin, og hvordan han blev bedt om a...
The 2019er Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Auslese was harvested at a massive 120° Oechsle. It offers a beautifully exotic and complex nose of mango, dried apricot, passion fruit, pineapple, orange zest, mirabelle, and plum. The wine is superbly playful and rich on the palate, where some fine and ripe zest brings a fully electric side. Sweet exotic and honeyed fruits give a rich side to the wine, yet the finish has more structure and proves hugely intense and long. This is a splendid rich Auslese in the making.
Very pure notes of lemons and limes here, as well as white pepper, cinnamon and white peaches. Pretty sweetness and drive to the palate, which has a crunchy, chalky feel, but remains very deeply set, flavorful and long. Very expressive and mineral.
Trarbacher Hühnerberg Auslese 2018 (94) er sjovt nok ”kun” markeret som en spätlese med 3 stjerner på proppen. Den har ostløbe, valle, pæresaft, pomelo og bagt pæretærte, udtalt sødme ja, og forbavsende moderat syre, men den er til gengæld tygbar, mineralsk fasthed og krasbørstighed, der skaber fuld balance.
The 2018er Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Auslese was made from fruit with 10% botrytis harvested at a full 110° Oechsle, and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (115 g/l). It offers a beautiful nose made of melon, floral elements, coconut, candied lemon, and fine spices. The wine is incredibly pure and elegant on the palate, and leaves a fresh feel of juicy melon, pear, passion fruit, a nd candied lemon in the long and gorgeously subtle and complex finish. This is a superb “Auslese lange GK”-styled wine in the making.
The 2018 Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Auslese is beautifully clear and flinty on the fresh, crunchy slate and herbal-scented bouquet with small red peach aromas. Still terribly young but promising the very best. On the palate, this is a highly refined, frisky, playful and super digestible Auslese with lush, concentrated yet brilliant and precise fruit. This is highly digestible and up there with the Auslese from Joh. Jos. Prüm. The finish here is incredibly lush and salty and promises a great aging potential, though the wine is already dangerously seductive today. Made with virtually no botrytis, this is from 60-year-old vine from the fourth terrace as well as the steep part of the bottom just below the first terrace but not from the Jungfeld, where the 2017 Auslese was sourced. - Stephan Reinhardt