Tradition Heritage 10 years, Schloss Gobelsburg

Straw, wet stone, wax, dried peach and hazelnutty creaminess come together on the nose. Waxiness also defines the palate, in line with vivid concentration and bright, enduring, guiding freshness. The texture here is smooth but deepening, like liquid sinking into stone while retaining a bright, shining citrus freshness. (Bone-dry) - Anne Krebiehl MW

The MV Tradition Heritage Cuvée 10 Years Edition 851 is a blend of mostly 2011 with a smaller addition of 2010, in a rough 80/20 blend of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Cream, caramel, hazelnut, yeast and Spanish almond nougat all meet on the nose. The palate is smooth, nutty, and serene, almost with a hint of resin, on a frame that is almost all texture, almost all smoothness, almost all smooth nougat mouthfeel. This is utterly unusual, complex, incisive, long and, of course, bone-dry. (Bone-dry) - Anne Krebiehl MW

Based on 2010 Renner Grüner Veltliner, with a 5% part of Gaisberg Riesling, the intensely yellow-colored NV Tradition Heritage Cuvée 10 Years Edition 850 offers a deep, pure, intense, concentrated, beautifully aromatic, spicy-floral and Traminer-like bouquet of white and yellow stone fruits, yellow rose petals as well as cloves, wax and refreshing flinty aromas. Rich, intense and highly elegant on the beautifully balanced and aromatic palate, this is a pure, vital, finessed and salty-mineral as well as tensioned and sustainable cuvée with a young, still tannic texture and remarkable oak and nougat flavors. This finely tannic 10 Years cuvée seems to be much younger and bottled from smaller barrels than the "3 years edition" sibling. There is no wine on this planet that is similar in style. The fruit is Austrian, very charming and irresistible, but the structure and texture builds the bridge to France—or more precisely Alsace and Burgundy, regions that Michael Moosbrugger adores but never would try to copy. - Stephan Reinhardt