Grüner Veltliner Tradition 2014, Schloss Gobelsburg

Land:
Østrig
Servering:
10-12 °C
Område:
Kamptal
Gemmepotentiale:
2016-2035
Alkohol:
13,5 %
Lagring: 
Store fade
Velegnet til: 
Fisk og skaldyr, Fjerkræ og Gris
280,-
På lager
  • Beskrivelse

    Grüner Veltliner Tradition 2014, Schloss Gobelsburg

    Enestående pris/kvalitet sammenhæng. Samger herligt nu, men også virkelig værd at lægge i kælderen, hvor den vil udvikle sig flot. En af østrigs helt helt store vine.

    Fremragende madvine til både klassik og nyt nordisk køkken, men også til spicy asiatisk inspireret køkken. Grüner Veltliner er en mirakelvin til mad. Dækker et meget bredt spektre. I Østrig drikker de Grüner Veltliner til nationalretten oksespidsbryst med peberrod (tafelspitz).

    Gammeldags Grüner efter munkenes opskrift. Lavet på 100 % Grüner Veltliner fra ca 50 år gamle stokke i marken Renner, der har status som 1. Lage efter den nye Niederösterreich klassifikation. Vinen er presset på gammeldags presse og derefter gæret uden gærtilsætning eller temperaturstyring på 25 hl store fade af østrigsk eg. Vinen er efterfølgende lagret på gæringsresterne på disse fade i 18 måneder med omrøring ca hver tredje måned.

    Tradition er inspireret af munkenes traditionelle måde at lave vin på. Det er en let oxidativ stil med komplekse aromaer og smag fra de hyppige omstikninger og den lange lagring på gærresterne ("sur lie"). Stilen er modsætningen til den moderne reduktive metode, hvor man gør alt for at undgå unødig iltadgang til vinen for at bevaree det rene udtryk af frugten.

    Grüner Veltliner i denne klasse klarer næsten alle retter bortset fra desserter. Dog bør maden have noget intensitet, da vinen ellers vil overdøve. God til retter med fisk og skaldyr, men er næsten allerbedst til kogt eller sprængt kød af gris eller kalv. Grüner Veltliner i en kraftig udgave som her, er en af de bedste vine til at kapere retter, hvor peberrod spiller en fremtrædende rolle.

  • Producenten
    Schloss Gobelsburg - toppen af Østrig

    Kamptal er efter Wachau Østrigs bedste vinregion med en århundredelang tradition for vindyrkning. Hovedsorterne er Grüner Veltliner og Riesling, men der dyrkes også en lang række andre sorter - bl.a. de røde Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir og Merlot.
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    94-95 p. Vinous

    This product of Moosbrugger’s empathetic investigation into the principles and methods that prevailed at Schloss Gobelsburg in the early to mid-20th century (as detailed by me in past Vinous reports) has once again resulted in a wine of elusive and rarified complexity such as you aren’t likely to experience in the early 21st century anywhere other than at the Wachau’s Nikolaihof. Alkaline, mossy, and roasted root vegetable aromas anticipate the flavors to come. Hints of mint, verbena and iris waft coolingly across a satin-textured palate, adding a high-toned layer to a complex performance marvelously transparent to a shimmering array of nuances. The finish here offers a rarefied variation on the peppery and stony impingements that characterized the corresponding “regular” 2014 Renner bottling, along with a striking evocation of raw scallop, its sweet-saline, iodine-tinged savor setting the salivary glands palpitating. - David Schildknecht

    94 p. Wine Advocate

    Coming from a highly underrated vintage, the golden-yellow colored 2014 Grüner Veltliner Tradition offers a clear, fresh and spicy as well as aromatic bouquet of ripe and concentrated (stone) fruits intermixed with herbal and smoky crushed stone aromas. There is great first maturity already that is so irresistibly inviting! Sourced from 50+-year-old vines on the loess and sand soils in the Renner, this is a highly elegant, fresh, piquant and transparent Veltliner with a well-structured, long and salty finish. Given the aromas of Turkish honey, popcorn and almonds as well as the lingering salinity and great elegance, there is a lot of Chablis character here although this Veltliner is more crystalline in style. Its finish is piquant and salty and tickling the palate. This is a gorgeous white and one of my very favorites I have tasted this year from this producer. - Stephan Reinhardt

    93 p. Falstaff

    Helles Gelbgrün, Silberreflexe. Mit feinen Gewürznuancen unterlegte reife gelbe Apfelfrucht, Anklänge von Anis, Quitten, facettenreiches Bukett. Saftig, elegant, der lebendige Säurebogen wird von feiner Fruchtsüße ausbalanciert, weißer Pfeffer im Abgang, ein toller Speisenbeleiter.

    97-98 p. Vinous (årgang 2013)

    This latest---indeed, greatest--in Michael Moosbrugger’s memorable ongoing series of explorations into how and why his mid-20th century predecessors and their forebears “raised” wine, was to have been bottled this summer for autumn release. But Moosbrugger was away when I returned to Austria in September and I was unable to obtain a bottle, so for now I present my May 2015 notes from cask. Faintly yeasty and alkaline notes in the nose accompany intimations of the rich, earthy, umami-laden foundation of subtly caramelized root vegetables that the palate delivers, studded with peppercorns and drizzled with fragrant floral honey. Satiny in texture, searchingly expansive, yet buoyant and preserving a vibrant core of sheer refreshment, this enters a finishing realm of oyster liquor-like salinity, oceanic mineral and seaweedy depth, that will milk your salivary glands while leaving your mouth agape. (Any embarrassment will be well worth it.) - David Schildknecht